5th Engineering Cosmetics and Consumer Products Conference

A Naturally Great Hair Day: A sustainable alternative to quaternary compounds

Author

As the consumer need for natural, clean, and sustainable hair care products continues to grow, greener alternatives are a key need for quats and silicones. Natural oils and waxes are known but can create a greasy appearance and feel with minimal volumizing benefits. A natural, patented alternative to silicones and quats based on functionalized jojoba and sunflower seed waxes is presented. The technical origin, background and molecular composition of this material is discussed and demonstrates its biomimetic nature and similarity to human sebum.

This new material was benchmarked against traditional quats and silicone oils. Technical evaluations include contact angle, volume retention, curl retention, contact angle, frizz, wet and dry comb, and sensorial properties. Data showing a statistically significant increase of hair volume reduction in humid conditions is presented. Hair frizz was also significantly reduced and curl retention was also maximized after exposure of hair tresses to humid conditions versus quats and silicones. In wet hair combing, statistically significant wins over silicone oils were achieved. In dry combing and hair breakage, the performance of this material rivaled that of both quats and silicones. Anti-stat benefits were also achieved with synergies observed when combining with quats. Finally, formulations tested with this new material were positively rated by consumers.

In summary, this new ingredient with a bio-similar quality to sebum not only rivals the performance of quats and silicones but exhibits a more desirable biodegradability profile.